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Well done - that's been a bit of struggle but a good result. One more saved and driving! - Iain
Back on the road.  :)
General Discussion / Performance Vauxhall mag
« Last post by curryracer on Apr 24, 2017, 22:26:34 »
I've just seen the pics of the Thunder saloon HSR in Performance Vauxhall mag. WOW!

Does anyone have access,to a copy of this issue they could scan and post on here or send me ?

Think it was the Jan '17 issue.

General Discussion / Re: Jolting when releasing accelarator
« Last post by Bill on Apr 24, 2017, 22:24:04 »

I would strongly recommend the accuspark contactless points , that will eliminate the condensor and mechanical points.

There are so many things that mess up with traditional points, the condensor dries up, the distributor shaft bearing gains slack resulting in variable points gap. crap gets on the points etc..

I have driven around 48000 miles in a chevette/chevanne since 2013 , both have the accuspark, it is fit and forget.

If it is the brown distributor cap with the condensor on the outside (bosch) then the kit is the k24 kit from them.  can't remember what the delco (black cap internal condensor) one is.

If you have not changed the plug leads then change em , they do fail internally.  I recently made up a set of copper core ones after getting a roll of stranded HT cable off ebay :) . don't get the solid core cable as it cracks eventually from vibration.

Oil leaks are standard :D mine leaks reasonably , not excessive. this is partly due to fact i use synthetic il with original seals.  mineral oil attacks seals and makes them swell, so ideally with synthetic oil i should of replaced all the seals.

The rear seal as already mentioned is a real pig to do, not to mention the sump gasket in that area once you have it done!

So i would avoid that.

With the judder you mention, is it only during initial movement in first gear ? if you bring the clutch up slower, can you avoid it ?

My chevette which i did around 18k in has the original clutch/mounts etc.. and had this take up shake.  if you didn't control how you brought the clutch up it would shake the engine/gearbox severely :o

Yet again only first gear and on initial take up, all other gears fine.  This i think is more to do with tired/knackered rubber mounts such as the gearbox mount and torque tube doughnut.

if yours is doing it in all gears then you may indeed have a shagged clutch, possibly a snapped spring or damaged friction material or damaged splines/release bearing.

the mechanical fan as Scotty states does get noisy , especially at a certain rev where the worn bearing vibrates. the noise travels to the engine so it sounds like a nasty problem that isn't really there.

The good thing is, these beasts are fairly easy to dismantle and investigate, but if you do take the gearbox off then you might as well change the complete clutch and bearing anyway.  With average driving they will last pretty much forever :D
General Discussion / Re: Jolting when releasing accelarator
« Last post by scotty on Apr 24, 2017, 19:01:32 »
Agree - crankshaft rear oil seal failure is messy but doesn't usually affect the clutch in any way.  Do the usual clutch test  -put it in third - foot hard on the foot brake- rev the engine up a bit and slowly release the clutch. The engine should stall. If not clutch is knackered. From the info posted it would seem to me that there may be a intermittent fault in the LT or HT ignition wiring or perhaps the Thermo Fan is being noisy - they are known to be unreliable. - Scotty
General Discussion / Re: Jolting when releasing accelarator
« Last post by Jeff J on Apr 24, 2017, 13:23:09 »
I doubt you will have oil in the clutch assy. from a leaking crankshaft seal, it would have to be pouring out for the flywheel to throw it around in the bell housing. If you do decide to replace the clutch then check the flywheel for scoring & get it skimmed if there is any. That is what was causing clutch judder on mine even after replacing the clutch & thrust bearing.
I have just found out to my cost that changing the crankshaft oil seals is a real pain in the butt & I ended up completely rebuilding the engine while it was out.
General Discussion / Re: Jolting when releasing accelarator
« Last post by Studpony84 on Apr 23, 2017, 22:27:48 »
Hi Bill,

Thanks for the reply and sorry about it taking me so long to respond.

Last weekend when I had her up on the ramps I noticed a fair oil drip suspended between the engine and the bellhousing (where they join).

This has led me to believe there is oil on the clutch. I don't think Its the mounts as yesterday there came an almighty judder at low revs but no cluncks or knocks to be heard.

Today I replaced the condenser that earths to the engine block (haven't touched the one in the cap as it looks new).

The engine seemed happier with that then I tested a tip that an older friend told me about spraying wd40 on outside of the leads. The engine went really smooth when I done this.

Unfortunately this did not stop her from stalling after approx 10-15 mins idling. This brings me back to believing the HG is away although it may be a very small hole.

So in summary she needs a new head gasket, rear main seal and clutch. Anyone want a chevette??!!!

I have the parts but none of the know how.

I in Nairn. Is that near you?

 :wallbang: :wallbang: :wallbang: :wallbang:
Thats one way to look at it! Starter ain't very accessible to hit with a hammer or join terminals. Manual says remove engine mount. Not like the old david brown tractor we had, starter was always sticking.
Check your earths as well, standard earth strap for the battery is piss poor as i just found out! Stick at it, more errors you have more you learn ins and out of the engine! If you ever breakdown you can instantly know whats wrong?
Hit the starter with a hammer - its stuck!
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