Author Topic: Steel torque tube  (Read 126 times)

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Offline curryracer

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Steel torque tube
« on: Oct 09, 2017, 19:53:13 »
I am considering trying to make a steel torque tube for my long term project, as I don't want to just buy one (even if I could find one for sale!)

The outside diameter I can work out from the rubber mounting thing, but does anyone know the correct ID / tube thickness?


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Offline scotty

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Re: Steel torque tube
« Reply #1 on: Oct 09, 2017, 20:09:22 »
What benefit do you expect from doing this?  I would have thought marginal at best. - Scotty

Offline curryracer

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Re: Steel torque tube
« Reply #2 on: Oct 09, 2017, 21:05:46 »
Hoping to benefit from it staying in one piece!

One of the two axles I have already shows signs of wear inside the alloy tube from excessive movement in the donut / body mount. Want to future proof the drive line as best I can for reasonable cost.

From what I can see, the ID of the steel tube is bigger than the alloy one. I have sleeved the drive shaft and subsequently there is less clearance to the inside of the tube.

http://www.opelgt.com/forums/clutch-transmission-drive-train-upgrades/48090-reinforcing-propeller-shaft-2.html

Offline scotty

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Re: Steel torque tube
« Reply #3 on: Oct 10, 2017, 20:37:56 »
Didn't realise you were going racing! Apologies for my comment - It is indeed important that the casing doesn't fracture as it is a rear axle torque and location link. - Scotty

Offline curryracer

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Re: Steel torque tube
« Reply #4 on: Oct 12, 2017, 20:36:57 »
I don't actually have an engine yet, but the 120 bhp-ish Ford cross flow engine and some enthusiastic autocrossing over a few years did a fair bit of damage without actually breaking the alloy tube.

Hoping to get a tuned XE and do some track days, or tarmac stage rallies.

If anyone has one they could measure I would be grateful.

It may be that its not cost effective to make one when there are a few German companies that sell them for 100 or so.

Offline scotty

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Re: Steel torque tube
« Reply #5 on: Oct 12, 2017, 22:33:19 »
I am running an X14xe through a Sierra type 9 box to the standard axle with no problem - its only about 85 bhp though. I did renew the bearing and rubbers just in case. If i was doing it again I would use a X18xe1 1.8 from a Vectra . Cheap engines - about 120 bhp which is probably the most you could expect a standard axle to take.

Offline curryracer

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Re: Steel torque tube
« Reply #6 on: Oct 16, 2017, 22:27:21 »
Both my axles are from the Manta A, the one with the open diff has done well to take the abuse I was giving them. Not tried the one with the welded diff yet!

My options are:
Use a C20XE with an RX8 gearbox for which I will need the steel tube and the uprated shaft,  or

a tuned C16XE (making 120-130 bhp) with a tired type 9 for which I won't need the steel torque tube, but will use the uprated shaft (since I have one - actually I have 2 😉)

I was hoping to get some dims of the steel tube and cost out making one. It might help me make a decision which engine and box to use.

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